Work Text:
The wave crashes to the land sweeping up to my toes. I jump, but am too late. The water swirls around my feet like a whirlpool, beckoning the sand which escapes from under my soles and my feet slip downward. I sink lower and lower until my feet are gone, covered with moving sand.
I grunt as I heave my feet out, like they’ve been caked in concrete and face the waves, diving out beyond the surf.
I glance behind me as the swell approaches, closer and closer, I angle my body and paddle as the wave catches up, higher and higher, about to crest. It’s the perfect wave, until it isn’t. Heels over my head, the motion twists my body. I don’t know which way is up until my chin slams into the floor and sand fills my mouth.
Finally, I reach the surface, kneeling in the surf, spitting and retching, gasping for breath.
“Heads up!” someone calls and I turn my head but it’s too late.
Another wave crashes, cutting off my scream and bringing even more sand.